csandwcaucasus
Here are some photos from Common Sense and Whiskey, chapter 15, the Southern Caucasus. We took this trip in June, 2006. You can buy professional prints of most of these photos in the Armenia, Azerbaijan and Georgia Galleries. You can buy Common Sense and Whiskey on Amazon.com, or by clicking here.
Or, go back to Chapter 14: Malawi
The flight to Yerevan arrived a little before dawn, and straight from the airport we cruised down a four lane split highway to Khor Virap Monastery, about 30 kilometers south of town. It was closed when we arrived. We served ourselves up as breakfast for mobs of mosquitoes. Levon made us understand that the fourth parallel road out that way was in Turkiye, as was Mt. Ararat, which towered beyond.
caucasuseuropearmeniayerevanformer communistsoviet unionararatmountainmonasteryantiquesnowpeakreligionworship armenian khor virap
Newlyweds, preceded by a car video-taping their antics, stood through the sunroof in their limousine, as they took a few spins around Republic Square in the center of the capital. This is the Armenian Foreign Ministry, on one side of the square.
caucasuseuropearmeniayerevanformer communistsoviet unionurbanarchitecturedowntownbuildinggovernmentforeign ministryministry armenian
Republic Square, Yerevan, Armenia.
caucasuseuropearmeniayerevanformer communistsoviet unionurbanarchitecturedowntownbuildinggovernmentministryplaza armenian
Leaving Yerevan you’ll see a cloister, the zoo, a big water park with curvy slides, the statue to Saint Mesrop Mashtots, inventor of the Armenian alphabet, and the engineering and medical institutes. And this Ferris wheel.
caucasuseuropearmeniayerevanformer communistsoviet unionhousingbuildingarchitectureferris wheelvillage armenian
At the Lake Sevan monastery. men sang traditional songs or played stringed instruments for tips, and quit immediately as you walked past. Welcome.
caucasuseuropearmeniayerevanformer communistsoviet unionpeoplemanlake sevanruralsingmonastery armenian
These are khachkars at the Sevan Monastery. They're intricately carved monuments that serve as memorials. Noune said the Turks claimed they were a Turkish invention, even though Turks and Armenians don't share a religion. Bad blood, there.
caucasuseuropearmeniayerevanformer communistsoviet unionararatmonasteryancientstonetabletcarvingreligionworship armenian
Lake Sevan, at 1900 meters (6200 feet), it’s the world’s highest alpine lake.
caucasuseuropearmeniayerevanformer communistsoviet unionbenchlake sevanruralshorelake armenian
Levon and Lake Sevan, Armenia.
caucasuseuropearmeniayerevanformer communistsoviet unionpeoplemanlake sevanrurallake armenian
Road sign in three languages on the road north between Yerevan, Armenia and Tbilisi, Republic of Georgia.
caucasuseuropearmeniayerevanformer communistsoviet unionruraroadsigntbilisigeorgiafield armenian
Men stood outside shipping containers by the roadway. They walked toward the Volga as we approached and pointed the index fingers of both hands at the car, arms held a certain distance apart. They were selling fresh lake fish, advertising them as, “this big.”
caucasuseuropearmeniayerevanformer communistsoviet unionruralarchitecturecartrailerfishmarket armenian
The Mtkvari and Aragvi Rivers at the town of Mtskheta, the ancient capital of the Republic of Georgia. Three and a half hours after leaving Tbilisi we were still here, just fifteen kilometers outside the capital, our destination up by the Georgian border with Russia, ten kilometers from Chechnya.
caucasuseuropegeorgianmountainpeakalpinelandscaperiverconfluencehighwaytownriverbankshoretransporttransportation
Each end of Kazbegi’s main square comprised nothing much, with a road wandering off each way. This one is the road over the Caucasus mountains to Vladikavkaz, North Ossetia, Russia, from Kazbegi, Republic of Georgia. Vladikavkaz is about 25 miles past the border.
caucasuseuropegeorgiantransporttransportationstreetladaautotravelsignkazbegiruralcountrylane
"A dump truck-sized Kamaz lumbered by, an unlikely family vehicle that deposited a scarf-clad old woman with a basket down at the bottom of the hill." The family car, Kazbek, Republic of Georgia.
caucasuseuropegeorgianmountainpeakalpinesnowtruckvillageautotransporttransportationdrivepeopledrivertireridge
Entrance to 14th century Trinity Church (Tsminda Sameba) near Mt. Kazbegi, Caucasus mountains, Republic of Georgia. A young man with bright red tennis shoes up there was offended by the beers, so we retreated outside the church grounds and enjoyed lunch outside in the sunshine.
caucasuseuropegeorgianancientdoorentrancearchitecturearchstonereligionorthodoxworship
Downtown Baku with the Ferris Wheel in the little amusement park.
asiacaspianmosquecityurbancountrysoviet unioncaucasusparkferris wheelaliyevbakuskylineformer communistbuildingarchitectureazeri
" ... an old round bus gasped for air at the curb. It was blue and white, with blue curtains pulled completely shut in each of the four windows along the side. All the windows were surrounded with corrosion, and streaks of dried rust ran down the bus from the bottom of each window."
asiacaspianturcktransporttransportationsoviet unioncaucasusaliyevbakururalbusformer communistazeri